Beauty Business News Jan 2022

[affiliate used] The rumors that Marc Jacobs Beauty had left the UK had been swirling since the middle of last year but it turned out that Kendo (the trademark owner) had not renewed his license with Marc Jacobs and the trademark had completely disappeared. If you’re in the US, the color palettes of TJ Maxx (the US counterpart to the UK’s TK Maxx) will never float. Oddly enough, Kendo has kept the beauty of KVD – I don’t know anyone actively seeking this brand here in the UK – and brought in the Lip Lab which is an interesting development.

Lip Lab is a customizable retail offering from Bite Beauty (also Kendo) where you can choose your own finish, colour, texture and scent. Directions again in other words and how the English language center should kick itself. I suppose they have the ability to bring it back. I’m expecting a rise in customizable beauty but gaining traction at community levels such as “make your own lipstick” parties and courses. In fact, I will be joining the course next week. Rouge Sur Mesure from YSL is the new in-house lipstick shade creator here.



HoF on Oxford Street in the last week before closing completely. The scene is disturbing – brands that haven’t recovered their stock (for whatever reason) jumble together (Shiseido, Clarins and Clinique mostly) on the ground floor in chaotic heaps with 50% off signage. If you’re going to close a store, do so with dignity and respect. Everyone understood the closing feuds but this was the most soiled bone picking. More closures are scheduled across the country – one heritage building is (physically) disintegrating due to what appears to be severely poor maintenance, so it will be interesting to see the exact reasons given for the inevitable closure.

Does everyone remember Jeanine Lobel? Founder of Stila (1994) when it was fun and exciting before selling to Lauder who then sold it? Well, she’s back with a new brand, Neen (her nickname). Before we get too excited, it’s working on a subscription model (like Beauty Pie) and launching in the US in February.

The E45 was sold by Reckitt Benckiser for £200 to the Swedish company Karo Pharma. They own Footner and Nailner (plus Fungobase, Poxlciin, and Wortie among others) and acquired Scholl’s foot care products last year.

It’s not a beauty yet, but it’s so easy to take it out of fashion that I think it will soon, but stay tuned for British brand Heat Mystery Boxes HERE, funded by start-up LVMH. There are monthly fashion organizers with boxes sent across the US, EU and UK – the ‘mystery’ is that you get what they send, not what you choose, although there are selection criteria within that. It’s so easily convertible into beauty (see MAC’s offer of the Mystery Box for £35 here) that startups should be scrambling to compete. Basically, mystery chests are the new cosmetic chests.

P&G is shopping again. Having recently acquired Ouai Hair Care, they are rumored to be about to pick up their New York City brand Tula Beauty that focuses on the skin’s vital areas. P&G also owns the SK-II and I had forgotten that this brand even existed.

Among all the surprising news I wasn’t expecting, the fact that L’Occitane has invested in lingerie ranks pretty high. L’Occitane is a lot more than just French skincare these days—they opened their startup (Venture Capital) studio Obratori in 2018. Looking at previous investments, they’re pretty excited about algae. Lolo Paris is underwear for “digital natives” at this point I’ll close it but it looks absolutely beautiful (here) with a comprehensive survey on “conformation” to help you choose.

Sources and resources: WWD, Global Cosmetics News, Reuters.

Disclosure of transparency

All products are sent to me as samples from brands and agencies unless otherwise stated. Affiliate links may be used. Posts are not paid affiliate.

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